Front Sway Bar Installation
|Tools and parts you will need:|
|1LE Front Sway Bar*|
|Prothane Endlinks and Bushings|
|10 mm socket|
|13 mm socket|
|14 mm socket|
|14 mm wrench|
*Part Number 26032907
Car: 1999 Z28 Camaro, 9,000 miles
Installers: Eric and Kelly Barger
People who helped us from major tech talk to general advice:
Erik (EQuandt) Elmer Boggs (eboggs_jkvl) All my buds at LS1.com
Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your shop equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this publication for the advice of a paid professional. This product is how we accomplished our installs and is not meant to be carved in stone. We are not responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information.
Purpose: The sway bar and bushing replacement will decrease the amount of body roll and nose dive (when braking) and increase the overall stiffness of your car. Your tires will stay flatter to the ground and increase your traction in the curves.
Preface: You will notice that the install pictures in this install document are after the fact. We did the front sway bar after the rear sway bar and were very cold and irritable by this time. It was very cold and very windy so we hurried this install up. That included not taking any pictures until a warmer day. Before you start into this install be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment. You might also want to have a friend help you during this install to help make the job a lot easier. Everyone needs a partner (my case) or a gopher (maybe that is your case).
1. We drove the front two tires onto a set of Rhino Ramps. Then we chocked the rear wheels and placed a floor jack just touching the car frame of the car because we are anal about safety. Locate the front sway bar (see blue arrow in Figure 1) and end links (see red arrows in Figure 1). We painted our new 1LE sway bar yellow.
2. Now that you are underneath the car, look toward the driver's side. Locate the two silver star washers that hold the rubber guard back over the air pump (see blue arrows in Figure 2). Take the silver star washers off; the best advice we can offer is to use your fingers. Once you have removed the silver star washers, remove the plastic push screw (see red arrow in Figure 2). The plastic push screw is not visible in this picture but is easy to spot when you are under the car.
3. Now look at the driver's side fender well and locate the screws that hold the black plastic inner lining in the fender wells on (see white arrows in Figure 3). Next you want to remove the 13 mm nut that is on the sway bar bushing (see red arrow in Figure 3). Remove the last two 10 mm screws so the metal shield will come off. The second screw is hidden so you will have to look for it (see blue arrows in Figure 3).
4. Go ahead and grab a 13 mm box wrench and 13 mm socket and ratchet. Place the box wrench on the nut at the top of the end link and use the socket and ratchet to loosen the bolt in the end link from the bottom (see blue arrows in Figure 4). Once you do this on one side, repeat the procedure on the other side. Do not grease the end link bushings.
5. Now you are ready to remove the "D" bushings using a 13 mm socket (see blue arrows in Figure 5). When removing the bolts from the bracket that holds the bushings in place be ready to catch the sway bar before it falls and hits you on the head. The passenger side "D" bushing is shown in Figure 5. The driver's side will have a funny looking bolt that has a nut in the middle. You would see this after removing the metal shield. Be sure after you remove it you replace it in the same spot. That is what the 13 mm nut from the metal shield attaches too.
6. Now you should get your new sway bar and bushings ready to install. Take note of where the "D" bushings are on the stock sway bar. Place a little grease (should come with the bushings) inside the "D" bushings. Then slide the bushings onto the sway bar back to the same place where the stock ones are on the factory sway bar with the slits facing the rear. We used the box end side of a wrench to spread the bushings apart to get them on the sway bar. Now you have a bunch of grease on the bar. Use some WD-40 to wipe it off. Otherwise, just wait to put the grease on the inside of the "D" bushing after you get it on. We found it easier to place the grease on before.
Tighten up the brackets enough so they will stay up in the air. Be very careful not to cross thread the bolt in. Now go ahead and place the end links back together. Our Prothane (Prothane is the brand name) end links used a 14 mm socket and wrench (the boxed end) to tighten them back up. Get them just tight enough to hold on and do the other side. Now, go ahead and tighten up the nuts on the end links to 16 ft-lb. Now make your final adjustments on your "D" bushing to make sure it is lined up correctly (you will see what we mean when you do the install) and tighten the nuts down to 18 ft-lb.
7. Reinstall the shields and plastic fender wheel screws in reverse order. That does it! Lower the car and go for a drive.
Comments: We did this modification along with the 1LE rear sway bar with bushings and end links. The car felt much stiffer and had a lot less body roll in the turns and less nose dive during braking. We both have commented on the harsher ride we seem to get along with this install. This has been the most noticeable improvement to date on the car. Going on curvy roads has never been so much fun!
Web Author: Eric Barger firstname.lastname@example.org Copyright © 1999 - 2002 Eric Barger. All rights reserved. Revised: June 07, 2007 .