|Tools you will need:||Date:|
Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your shop equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this publication for the advice of a paid professional. This product is how we accomplished our installs and is not meant to be carved in stone. We are not responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information.
Purpose: Changing the engine oil is a crucial part of regular maintenance that must be performed to keep your car running. We change our oil every 2,000 - 2,500 miles. Most people perform this maintenance item every 3,000 miles. We change our oil when the engine is cold. Some people prefer this be done while the engine is hot. Heated engine oil does not feel good on my hands so we will continue to perform this maintenance item while the engine is cold.
Preface: Before you start this install be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment. Take your time and be careful.
1. We drove the front two tires onto a set of Rhino Ramps. Then we jacked the rear of the car up on two jack stands (See Note 1) to make the car as level as we possibly could. This way we can drain all of the old oil out of the oil pan since the drain bolt is on the side of the oil pan. Then we placed a floor jack so it was just touching the frame of the car because we are anal about safety. Locate the oil pan drain bolt (see blue arrow in Figure 1).
Note 1: Having the rear of the car on the ground and the front of the car on ramps is ok to do. In fact, most people change their oil with just the front of the car up on ramps. We just want to drain as much of the old oil out as possible. Also, pay no attention to the fact that we don't have the car on jack stands in the rear. We got ahead of ourselves and took the pictures before we got the rear of the car in the air.
2. Now is a good time to place your catch pan (make sure it will hold at least 6 quarts of fluid) to the side and out a little bit. When you remove the drain bolt the oil will flow out to the side a good ways. As the catch pan begins to fill up, the oil will begin to drain closer and closer back toward the oil pan. You might have to move your catch pan to adjust for this. Once the oil has drained out (See Note 2), retighten the oil pan drain bolt to 18 ft-lbs. We just tighten it up snug; don't put a killer tight fit on it.
Note 2: We let our oil drain for a good 10 minutes before retightening the oil pan drain bolt. Some people let their oil drain for 2 hours or longer to make sure they get as much of the old oil out as they possibly can.
3. Now you are ready to remove the engine oil filter (see blue arrow in Figure 2). You might have to use a filter wrench to remove the oil filter. We just tighten our filter to "hand tight" so we don't need a filter wrench to loosen our filter. When you go to loosen your filter, you are going to have some oil spill out. Just have your catch pan ready to catch the oil (and possibly the filter). Your filter will have oil already in it, so be careful not to tip the filter and cause a mess. Oil does not like to be cleaned up!
4. Go ahead and fill the "new" oil filter up with your "new" motor oil. Fill slowly and give the filter time to absorb the oil. This is not necessary but we like to prevent our oil pump from pumping air as much as possible. We highly recommend that you perform this step which is often referred to as "priming" your oil filter. While you are filling up the oil filter with oil, rub some clean oil around on the gasket of the oil filter. This will ensure a good seal and reduce the chance of ruining your gasket. This is just a good thing to do.
5. Now that you have your oil filter "primed" go ahead and tighten it to 22 ft-lbs. We just tighten our filter back to hand tight. There is no need to put the crush of death on the filter.
6. You are now done on the bottom of the car so go ahead and get out from under there. Go ahead and locate the oil filler cap on your car (see blue arrow in Figure 3). Take the cap off, stick your funnel inside the tube, and put the rest of the bottle of oil you used to fill the oil filter down the funnel. Then pour another four and one half (4.5) quarts down the hatch. Pour slowly; you don't want to make a mess all over your engine block.
7. Our car calls for five and one half (5.5) quarts of engine oil. Yours might take a little more and you will need to check this. Locate the oil dipstick (see blue arrow in Figure 4) and pull it out. Take a rag and wipe off the lower end of the stick. Notice the grooves and marking instructions on the dipstick? Go ahead and stick the dipstick back in and then pull it out again. You want the level to read in the full range. If it seems a little low, add a little oil at a time until you get just the right amount.
Note 3: Make sure the car is level when checking the oil level.
8. Go ahead and lower your car and reset the oil life monitor. If you don't reset the oil life monitor then you will get the change oil message. Turn the key to the "run" position (don't start the car), hold in the trip odometer button until you see the oil change light blink.
Now that you have that out of the way, go ahead and start it up and go for a drive (you don't have to go for a ride but this is a good excuse to do so). You just saved yourself some money and have the peace of mind the job was done right the first time.
Comments: Don't skimp on this maintenance item and take your time letting the oil drain out of the oil pan.